Frequently Asked Questions
1. "Is My Car Truly a Redline?"
A "Redline" Hot Wheels car is one that was manufactured within the first ten years of production, i.e. 1968 to 1977.
The term "redline" derives from the fact that, during that period, the cars were manufactured with a red stripe on the tire.
Although there were a number of different wheels types and sizes, almost ALL cars made during the redline era have red striped wheels.
(The exceptions being the Rail Dragsters from 1971, the two motorcycles from 1975 and some of the military vehicles)
Simply having a red striped wheel does NOT guarantee that a car is a true redline.
In 1977, the redline wheels were gradually replaced by the new "basic wheel" or "blackwall" design. By 1978, the red stripe was completely
abandoned and cars made after 1977 are commonly known as "Blackwalls". After a hiatus of fifteen years, red striped wheels reappeared in
1993, the 25th Anniversary year. Mattel reproduced some of the original redline castings, equipped them with a new design of red striped wheel
marketing them as the 25th Anniversary line, followed by the "Vintage Series" in 1994. Red striped wheels have been used intermittently since
then on both the main line cars and some premium lines. Thus, the red striped wheel, alone, is not a definitive way to confirm a true redline.
US or Hong Kong Only!
During the red line years, the cars were sold worldwide but were only manufactured in two places, the US or Hong Kong, with US production ending by 1972.
By 1978, production moved to Malaysia. In the following years factories were set up in many and other countries, but never to return to the US or Hong Kong.
Therefore, if the chassis of the car identifies the "country of origin" as ANYTHING other than US or Hong Kong, then it is NOT a true redline.
Not France, Malaysia, Italy, China, Thailand, Indonesia, India, Macau, Mexico or Venezuela...
Thus, if the car HAS red striped wheels AND was made in the US or Hong Kong, then it is a true Redline!
Once you know that you have a redline, use this guide to learn more about it.
2. "How old is my Hot Wheels car?"
Almost every Hot Wheels car made has a "year" embossed on the base, the earliest being 1967 on a few models.
This date is the year in which Mattel filed the COPYRIGHT for the name and the design of the car.
This date is NOT the year it was made or sold.
Typically, the cars were copyrighted in the year prior to first release for sale, but many castings have been in production for over 30 years.
Thus, the date has no relevance to the age of the car other than the car can be no older than the copyright date.
Example!
Pictured above are two Plymouth Barracudas, one in spectraflame copper next to a chromed version.
* Both have "redlines" on the wheel
* Both are dated "1967"
Country of Origin
The chrome car is made in "China" and CANNOT be a true redline.
The copper Custom Barracuda is made in the USA and therefore is a true redline.
Copyright Date
Although dated, "1967", the chromed car is a Redline Club Membership car from 2004.
The copper Custom Barracuda, released in 1968, is made in the USA and therefore is a true redline.
The date on the base is NOT the year of manufacture.
3. "What is my Redline WORTH?"
1. DON'T QUIT YOUR DAY JOB, YET!
2. Collectors have been actively combing the world for decades so the probability of finding the next Pink Beach Bomb at a garage sale in Tennessee is pretty remote.
3. The variation of a castings can be rather broad, especially in the Spectraflame years. There are a myriad of factors: Country of Origin - US or HK?, Paint Color?,
Interior Color?, Black or Unpainted Roof? The value of a casting can vary by several decimal points depending on the rarity of the variation.
4. In real estate the three most important watchwords are "Location, Location, Location". In redlines, it is "Condition, Condition, Condition". They made millions of almost every
model and color. Collectors want the best quality they can find. So if your car has been played with and shows it, there are better ones out there to draw the collector's money.
5. There are a number of "Price Guides" on the market but none are current. However, any of them is better than nothing, but READ the notes on pricing: They most all list a price for a
loose car and packaged car. Almost UNIVERSALLY, the prices are stated for a car and package in PERFECT CONDITION.... See the "LINKS" button for some of the available guides.
6. In conclusion, the most current price data is found by searching eBay "SOLD ITEMS" for the same car in the same color in the same condition as the one you have.
4. "How Do I Rate the Condition of My Redline?"
As stated above, the condition of a car is a huge factor. Even minor flaws can devalue a car to a fraction of what a flawless car is worth.
Most collectors grade cars on a 10 to 0 scale with 10 being a perfect car and 0 being a beater.
Factors affecting the "grade" include:
* Body Damage
* Paint Chips or Scratches
* Zamac Toning
* Casting Flaws
* Wheel Wear
* Scratched or Damaged Glass
* Bent Wheels
* Kid Paint
* Etc.
This calculator is not perfect but it is a reasonable estimate of how these factors will reduce the value of a car from its "MINT" price.
A repainted or "Restored" car is no longer original and falls into a totally different category of collectible.
Few serious collectors will purchase or keep known repaints as they cast doubt on the integrity of the entire collection.
SHORT CUTS
| Alphabetical |
1968 |
1969 |
1970 |
1971 |
1972 |
1973 |
1974 |
1975 |
1976 |
1977 |
1980 |
All |
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